Showing posts with label deben. Show all posts
Showing posts with label deben. Show all posts

Friday, June 03, 2016

Tools of a Terrierman



If you're serious about digging on the dogs, you need a few basics:

  1. A dog that will fit in the hole.Smaller is generally better, and chest size is everything. Anyone who tells you a larger dog can "eventually get there if it has the desire," is a dog dealer or an armchair theorist. A dog cannot dig through rock or a root, nor can it excavate the length of a pipe. You cannot pound a gallon of sand into a pint bottle. With teriers, chest size matters. A lot. >> To read more

  2. A locator collar.
    I prefer Deben locator collars. Other parts of the world may be able to get by with larger avalanche locators, but I have tried them and I do not recommend them as I have found them to be too larger for our needs. I still use the old Deben Mark I kit, but the new Deben LRT collars are better tech in that they are waterproof and do not need to be taped up before an outing. >> To read more



    An Ames Poney shovel and a pair of heavy-duty post hole diggers.

  3. A good shovel.
    There is no better shovel than an Ames "Pony" sold by A.M. Leonard and other industrial tool companies. This shovel is heavy, has a good dish, and holds an edge when sharpened. Ames has been making tools in this country longer than we have been a nation. >> To read more

  4. A heavy-duty posthole digger.
    If you dig in hedgerows and rocky areas with heavy soil, you cannot do without this tool. >> To read more

  5. A digging bar.
    I do not like T-bars -- they are too hard on the hands. My bar is 3/4" hex stock, 6 feet long and straight, with a rounded point on one end, and sharp chisel point in the other. Perfect.

  6. A decent pack to carry it all.
    And by "all," I mean a snare, a long-handled trowel, a root saw, a machete, a scraper, water for you and the dogs, a small veterinary kit, extra batteries, tape, leashes, collars and tieouts. And by "decent" I mean one made of canvas and not light-weight "ripstop" nylon which cannot take the long-term abuse of tools and dirt. The pack I recommend is the Brockwood Bow/Rifle pack which fits a shovel head like it was designed for it. This pack will hold everything (and then some), wears like iron, and has good shoulder and waist straps. "Made in U.S.A. with Manufacturer Lifetime Guarantee."
If you are new to terrier work (or simply want to save money in the future), I also recommend one other investment. This little item. As Greg D. once said, "If you are serious about terrier work, nothing else will save you more time, grief and money." The JRTCA, the largest Jack Russell terrier club in the world, recommends it as "great reading for all terriermen and women." I only promise one thing: It will save you money ... and maybe your dog's life.
.

Tuesday, September 07, 2010

Deben Mark I Collars and Boxes for Sale

I still use the old Deben Mark I locator collars and box, and I recommend them.

The good news, for those who want to get into the world of digging, is that five of the old collar and box sets have come on the market here in the USA.

The seller is Ray H. in New Jersey, who can can be contacted at FOXHUNTERDERRY@YAHOO.COM.

If you want a phone number, send me an email and I will forward that number to you.

For those wondering, those are my old locator collars and box pictured below. Mine are a bit battered, but I have a spare box and a least two more collars beyond the two I use on my own dogs, so I am in good kit. More on how to use a locator collar -- and how to make the Mark I locator collars last forever --at this page on the Terrierman.com web site



.

Monday, June 28, 2010

Button Batteries for Less



It's taken me awhile for me to run down my stock of button batteries for my Mark I Deben collar, but I'm about about out, so I went over to EBay and made a purchase -- $8.85 (including shipping!) for 150 AG13 button batteries, which are also commonly sold as LR44 SR44 or L1154.

Compare that to the price of the same battery sold at RadioShack (and also made in China): $5.49 each. Outrageous! And yes, I can get button batteries for about $2.40 a unit at HomeDepot, but why would I do that when they cost me less than 7 cents a unit delivered to my door?

And for the record, button batteries last about 5 years on the shelf, so there's no worries about them going "stale." I generally use the batteries twice (all day each time) and then toss them out so I never worry about losing juice in a locator collar.


.

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

Button Batteries for Less

This is a repost from January of 2005.

A little bit of research into button batteries for Deben locator collars has convinced me that we rarely get what we pay for, especially if we are buying our batteries at CVS, Home Depot or Radio Shack.

As always, it's important to NEVER use a zinc-air battery. Having said that, there are a lot of other options which are mechanically interchangeable: Duracell D375H or D393; Panasonic SR44W or SP357 or ST48W or SP393; Ray-O-Vac RW42 or RW48; or an Ever Ready BSR 44H or BSR 48H or BSR 48L or any button battery labeled "AG-13".

Setting aside brands and numbers, all of these batteries look alike, but not all are alike chemically. Two different chemical compositions are commonly offered -- silver oxide and alkaline.

What's the difference? For our purposes, not much. Silver oxide batteries will last 15% to 35% longer than alkaline batteries, but they cost so much more that they are simply not worth it. In addition, silver oxide batteries tend to lose power over time and do not operate as well in cold temperatures.

Rather than spend money on expensive silver oxide batteries, a better investment is a $5 button battery tester. A battery tester will tell you the one thing you really need to know, which is whether the battery you are about to put in a collar is putting out enough juice to pump a signal 15 feet up to the receiver box. Brand and chemistry matters much less than the charge in the battery at the moment.

Retail prices for batteries are phenomenal. A 1-pack of the silver oxide Energize 357 model is $3.19 from Radio Shack, and alkaline batteries are about $2 apiece in most stores.

If you hunt very much, the lowest cost solution is to avoid retail purchase of button batteries and instead buy a lot of Chinese-made ("Everrich") alkaline batteries which are commonly sold on Ebay for about 15 cents each (100 batteries for $15). Just go to www.ebay.com and type in "button battery 44" or "button battery AG-13" and look for a "Buy It Now" button.

Always test batteries before you put them in a collar, tape the collars over breakfast (rushed taping in the field often leads to problems), and you will avoid a lot of troubles.

Tuesday, March 03, 2009

How to Use a Deben Locator






Simon Whitehead of Pakefield Ferrets has put together three videos for Deben, the makers of the Ferret Finder 3 which is, for all practical purposes, identical to the Long Range Terrier Finder when it comes to actual box opertion.

The Deben LRT is a pretty good locator, and the one I would probably be using if I were not using my "old school" Deben MKI. Nice work Simon!

Tuesday, October 14, 2008

Complete Working Terrier Kit - Silent Auction


Dogs and 4-wheel drive ATV not included.




(click on pictures to enlarge)


As some of you may remember, Bill Shadle died very unexpectedly earlier this year.

His widow has donated his hunting equipment to a silent auction to benefit Russell Rescue. As you can see from the pictures, above Bill had a comprehensive hunting kit.

The Kit will be sold in 3 lots:


  1. Digging Tools

  2. Back pack and contents including First aid kit

  3. Long range Deben Locater box and two collars with batteries and carrying case

Jenifer Carr and Kim Loar will take calls and email bids. Jenifer's Cell number is: 860-779-2613 and Kim Loar's number is 717- 299-4040. Email (the best way to contact) is: jrrescuepa@mindspring.com
.

Sunday, September 07, 2008

These Are The Good Old Days

I be will out of pocket for a few days due to a conference,
and so I repost this piece written back in 2002.
________________________________________


"Most show terriers are to working terriers what white lab rats are to wild rats; they may bear a passing resemblance, but they are entirely different animals in every way that counts."

"They don't make them like they used to," says the fellow patting the hood of a '57 Chevy.

No they don't -- they make them better.

Today cars steer with one finger, have batteries that never need topping off, pollute less, get more miles per gallon, and have seat belts and air bags to boot.

So it is with many other things.

Take wildlife -- there's more of it now than there used to be.

Today, across the U.S., we have more whitetail deer, red fox, raccoon, coyote, possum, groundhog, Gray fox, black bear, wolf, duck, geese, moose, beaver, turkey, elk, alligator, cougar and bald eagles than we have had at any time in the last 100 years.

And the numbers keep going up.

The world of working terriers is better too. Getting out to a farm is pretty quick in an air-conditioned car. No one is riding 20-miles to a hunt on a horse, and then, at the end of a long day, riding 20-miles back.

How about veterinary work? In the "good old days" your dog could be lost to distemper or canine influenza or hepatitis before it was old enough to get into the field. Before antibiotics, a small wound could lead to death from sepsis or a corneal abrasion could lead to blindness. Mange was difficult to cure and rabies was still prevalent across Europe, including the UK. It is still rampant in the U.S., but vaccines now keep our hunting dogs safe.

How about working terrier equipment? It hasn't changed much since the days of Jacques du Fouilloux in 1560, but it is certainly easier to obtain. An excellent shovel can be delivered to your door with a telephone call or a few clicks of your computer mouse. Ditto for fox nets -- only now they are made of green nylon, never rot, and last forever. The radio telemetry of Deben collars means we can now find and dig to our dogs with a great deal less fear than 40 years ago. And if we lose a dog in the field far from home, there is a good chance it will be returned to us thanks to microchips and tattoo registries.

What about working dogs? Surely these are not as good as those of yore?

At the risk of heresy, let me suggest that the real working terriers of today are about the same quality as they have always been -- a mixed lot, to be sure, but probably no worse.

In fact, as a group, they may be slightly better, as we now know more about genetics and, as a consequence, we can at least try to keep healthcare time-bombs out of the gene pool -- bilateral deafness, lens luxation, loose knees, and ataxia, for example.

It is also easier today for the average person to get a good working dog.

First of all, there are more working terriers than there ever have been.

Oh sure, there are not as many working terriers as a percentage of all dogs, but in absolute numbers the count is clearly up. Think about it: the human population has tripled over the last 70 years, and with it has come an increase in the number of people interested in all dogs, including working terriers. The rise of working terriers in the U.S. has certainly been a boost, as has been an increase in the number of foxes in the UK -- a phenomenon that has made casual terrierwork much more rewarding.

Today most working terriers are not associated with mounted hunts at all, but with weekend diggers who jump in a car and are out to a hedgerow within the hour.

In Victorian days, it was harder to travel, and fox were often scarce due to traps and poisons. Leisure time was also in short supply -- the weekend was not invented until the 1930s.

Truth be told, the "weekend warrior" terrierman did not much exist in the "old days." Back then when a gamekeeper had a nuisance fox to deal with, he was more likely to reach for poison and traps than for a terrier. In fact that is still the case. Terrierwork is relatively humane, but it is not very efficient, which is why traps and poison are still used, along with snares, and lamping with lurchers and guns.

But what about the show dogs?

What about them? Most show terriers are to working terriers what white lab rats are to wild rats; they may bear a passing resemblance, but they are entirely different animals in every way that counts.

In truth, many terrier breeds never hunted much of anything other than an occasional rat or rabbit. Though nearly every Kennel Club breed, from Silky terrier to Glen of Imaal, claims they once hunted fox and badger, there is very little evidence to support most of these claims.

Most terrier breeds, as we know them today, are synthetic creations cobbled together by show-ring enthusiasts beginning in the middle-to-late part of the 19th Century. Breeds were assembled from bits and pieces of genuine working dogs mixed with a dash of turn-spit dog, lap dog, dachshund, and spaniel. Features were exaggerated, coats lengthened and softened, colors selected, and nose color and "expression" given points. Slathered on top of all these new show-ring standards were invented histories and unfounded assertions that inconsequential attributes were of importance in the field.

Almost all of it was (and is) nonsense. As Harriet Ritvo notes in The Animal Estate: The English and Other Creatures in the Victorian Age, from the 1850s and into the 20th Century, dog show folks "elevated standards that had no basis in nature or aesthetics but reflected the ignorant, self-interested caprices of fanciers who wished to boost the prestige of their own stock in order to associate themselves with people of good breeding."

Ironically, even after 150 years of effort, the show ring has not killed off the true working terrier, which still exists outside the show ring in the same form it did a century and a half ago.

The "black and tan terrier" (now called the fell terrier) still works, though its stilted cousin the show Welsh Terrier and show Lakeland Terrier, now have overlarge chests and elongated heads, making them useless as fox-working dogs.

The "foxing" terrier (now called the Jack Russell Terrier) still works, though its bastard cousin, the show ring Fox Terrier, now has an enormous chest, an oddly elongated muzzle, a loose coat, and an odd stiff-legged movement never seen in a real working dog.

A few Border Terriers still work, though they too are increasingly too large to get to ground, and are now so expensive that they are more likely to be owned by suburban housewives than people capable of digging five feet into an embankment. In the U.S. finding two working border terriers to breed together is almost impossible!

What of the other breeds of working terriers?

There really weren't any, if by "work" we mean going to ground on fox and badger.

In fact, we may have one or two more working terrier breeds today than we did in the old days. Added to the above list of three types we can add the Patterdale Terrier (breeding true for 50-years and a derivative of the fell terrier) and the Plummer Terrier (breeding true for 20-years and a derivative of the Jack Russell Terrier). Unfortuntately, here too the push is on to draw them into the show ring, and chest size is already an issue in some lines, especially with Plummers.

What of the Cairn, Norfolk, Scottish, Australian, and Sealyham terrier?

Most of these breeds were drawn into the show ring almost as soon as they were created, and most were "worked" to nothing more substantive than rats and rabbits -- a job that a good collie or lurcher can do almost as well.

Yes a Cairn or two, and a Norfolk or two were hunted to fox. Jocelyn Lucas himself worked badger and fox with his pack of Sealyham terriers. That said, such stories are the exception rather than the rule, and few terrier breeds, other than the three previously mentioned, ever saw wide service in the hunt field. Lucas and his kennel partner, Mrs. Enid Plummer, found it almost impossible to carry on their own kennel of Sealyham terriers in the face of show-ring demands for ever-larger Sealyhams with elongated faces and softer coats. Today the small compact Sealyham Terrier of Lucas's day is essentially extinct -- as are the antecedents of most of the other terrier breeds. The names may live on, but something is surely missing, for none are commonly found in the hunt field today.

On the upside, the same type of working terrier that has always prevailed in the field still exists, and with a modicum of due-diligence dogs can be obtained reasonably easily from working kennels, and with some certainty that the dog will be of the right size and temperament to do the job.

Five-generation pedigrees -- a legacy of the show ring it should be said -- are sometimes a benefit in sorting through size and paternity claims. A quick telephone call can check out a story or two, and ascertain a pup's availability. A picture posted by email can quickly affirm a sire and dam's overall appearance and perhaps even offer some small assurance that the dog or sire and dam in question have indeed been worked (if pictures are available, as they certainly should be in this day and age).

Caveat emptor, of course.

Dog breeders tend to say what they think their customers want to hear. Even mediocre hunting dogs (by definition most of them) are routinely presented as exceptional beasts. If you do not put chest size front and center in your selection criteria, your dog will sure to be too big

That said, if after due-diligence you are reasonably satisfied that a dog or pup being offered will fit your needs, it's a relatively easy thing to get anywhere in the world in order to visit the kennel, see the dog in person, and strike a deal. We live in an increasingly small world, and it's now quicker to get from Washington, D.C. to London than it is to get across the state of Virginia -- at some level, a marvelous thing.

Which brings us back to Square One: These really are the good old days.

No generation has ever had more spare time.

No generation has ever had better dogs more easily obtained.

No generation has ever had easier access to farms stretching out over a vast portion of the countryside brimming over with suitable quarry.

If you want to hunt with terriers, it has never been easier to work them, and if you do so, you will quickly learn more with a shovel in your hand than you could in fifty lifetimes of bouncing around a show ring.

Slip loose a dog at a naturally-dug fox or groundhog den, and you will know more about spanning in 10 minutes than you could ever hope to learn from reading a breed standard.

Dig on a groundhog at the stop-end of a dirt pipe and you will know why tenacity and teeth are required.

Patch a few dogs up at the end of the day, and you will appreciate why brains and discretion are required as well.

Spend a hot summer day in a hedge and you will begin to value a dog's nose for its function and not just for its color.

Put a mute dog to ground and you will know why diggers care more about good voice and an honest mark than they do about "movement" and "expression."

Above all, get out and dig.

If you do so, when you grow old and grey, you will look back and say -- "Ah! Those were the good old days."
.

Friday, July 25, 2008

Small Vet Kit for Pack



This is my small vet box that contains everything I need to fix most small problems in the field. The box itself is a dual-sided fishing box about the size of a Deben receiver.

The top bin contains superglue (cyanoacrylate), which is the same as VetBond, but with a "methyl" base rather than an "ethyl" base. Plain old superglue was used by all the surgeons in Vietnam, and VetBond was only created to create a brandable product that 3M could price-gouge the public with.

A superglue or vetbond repair of a gash holds about as well as a 4.0 stitch, is very easy to apply, results in less scarring and is less likely to get infected as well. Superglue will also stop bleeding of rips, including most pad cuts.

Five tubes of superglue cost just $1 at the local Dollar Store, as compared to $15 for a single small vial of VetBond.

The green "fougera" packet is nothing more than a little triple-antibiotic ointment -- the kind used all over, for humans as well as pets.

The white tube with the red strip on the bottom is a Mycitracin eye ointment. This is used to ward off eye infection if a cornea has been ripped, and is a good thing to use, along with cephalexen (taken orally, see below).

There is not a lot that can be done for a corneal rip other than to to let the dog rest (crating the dog is a must) and taking steps to fight off infection (oral antibiotics are a must).

The pills in the bottom compartment are Fish-Flex cephalexen -- available without a prescription from any decent on-line pet place like Revival Animal Health. A 250 mg capsule is perfect for a terrier -- give twice a day for a week in the case of a puncture wound, or a serious rip from a fox or raccoon. Ceph is also a very good idea if you have a through-the-lip rip from a groundhog.

The glue, batteries and razor blade are for actual field use -- the pills are in the box simply because they are a good place to keep them handy.




This is the other side of the same box.

The larger tray contains a couple of brand-new single height batteries for my deben locator collars.

In the top left side tray I have six clavamox (125 mg). I will break these out only if Cephelaxen (Fish-flex) is not working. So far, I have not needed them.

In the bottom right side tray I have a brand new razor blade to use if a piece of skin needs to be cut away. Below that, I have a Percocet-5. Percocet is a good anesthetic for a dog and will calm it down as well. The dosage is 0.05 mg per pound of weight, so this 5 mg tablet is enough for 10 dogs that weigh ten pounds. To use, crush it up to powder, mix it well with distilled water, and squirt the correctly-measured dose down the dog's throat. Go slow -- you can always give more, but it's very hard to take a dose back once it is inside the dog!!

My main veterinary kit (always with me in the car) also contains a very large hypodermic syringe to irrigate wounds, two bottles of proviodine to sterilize wounds, a canine nail cutter, a muzzle, a surgical staple gun (a new addition which I have never used), forceps, foaming wound cleaner, graunlex, an extra eye wash bottle, extra batteries, a sharpener for the machete, and an extra set of leather gloves.
.

Wednesday, July 23, 2008

The Benefits of a Slide Tag on the Collar


A ridiculous outfit will get a dog noticed, but only tags will get it home.

For a lot of dogs in America, getting lost is fatal.

The harsh truth is that many dogs are destroyed at shelters every year because their owners cannot be found -- the collar or tag comes off in the brush or is taken off by some idiot who has custody of the dog for a few minutes on a country road. "I took off the collar to read it, and then the dog just ran off into the bushes ..."

Some of us even have dogs that are cute enough to be stolen.

The chance of a working terrier getting seriously lost is much higher than for a couch-potato pup that slips out the front door and simply wanders off into the neighborhood where it is likely to be spotted relatively soon.

When out hunting, we are often far from home, and our dogs may be out of sight for stretches of time -- hopefully underground, but not necessarily. Anyone who hunts terriers a lot, will eventually have a dog slip out of a den through the back door, sight unseen. Not all settes are simple affairs in the middle of well-mowed fields!

Another problem is that, when hunting, dangle tags cannot be worn for fear they will get hung up underground.

I cannot tell you how many times I have seen terriers in the field with no tags on at all because the terrier owner has not figured out how afix permanent (and safe) identification to the locator collar. This is a huge mistake!! A tag is always the quickest, surest and easiest way for anyone to get your dog back to you -- or your locator collar if it should slip off the dog.

Compounding the potential for serious trouble in the field is the fact that hunting dogs in prey mode are likely to go off on their own if they think it will provide a dividend. If there are too many loose dogs in the field (another mistake!) it's hard to keep your eye on every dog 100% of the time, and the one out of sight most often is sure to be the one that gets lost first.

Remember that locator collars (i.e. electronic transmitters with hand-held receivers) only work for about 15 feet (the old Deben Mark I) or 40 feet (the new Deben LRT) or 180 feet (various types of modified avalanche locators such as Bellman and Flint).

Distances like this are fine if your dog is underground and you know where the dog is (more or less), but if your dog has taken off any real distance because it is chasing deer or chasing a dog in heat, you are out of luck.

The simplest way to ensure your dog is returned to you if it is lost while hunting is to put a tag on the locator collar.

Some people rivet a tag through the thin leather on their locator collars, but this effectively cuts the narrow strap in two, and means that the collar leather will fail sooner rather than later.

It also means that the ID cannot be transferred to a new collar when the old collar breaks.

A better way to put an ID on your locator collar is with a simple brass slide tag.

In many hundreds of digs, I have had no problems with slide tags getting hung up underground, as they are smaller than the locator transmitters (even the Deben Mark I), more flush to the collar than the buckle, and they slide in multiple directions. And no, your den pipes are not smaller than mine!

Deben locator collar with slide tag and electrical tape to keep the transmitter dry.


A good place to order tags from is Boomerang Tags. Order a stainless steel tag (they are scratch-resistant), and use CAPITAL letters as they are easier to read.

I include my web site URL (www.terrierman.com) as well as my home number and my cell phone number, address and email.

Boomerang Tags makes slide tags for nylon snap collars as well as flat-buckle collars.



A final small tip: Order Boomerang's smallest stainless steel slide tag for your key chain. Most people will return your keys to you if they are found. All they need is an email address or a cell phone number.

For information on microchipping your dog, tattoos, and pet ID registries >> click here
.


Dana Delany with GI dog tags. This is a relevant picture because I say it is.
.

Sunday, April 13, 2008

The Contents of My Field Veterinary Box

I went through my field veterinary box today, not because I am a compulsive neat-freak, but because I had decided to strip Trooper, my ancient Border Terrier, and I misplaced my stripping knife. Maybe it was in the vet box.

It had been a few years since I had dived all the way to the bottom of my veterinary box (a plastic tool box acquired for $10 from Home Depot), and as I sorted through things I made a list of contents.

For the record, here it is:

  • SPF Sports 30 waterproof spray which is the greatest thing ever invented if you are a balding man who digs all summer
  • Jungle Juice -- 100 percent Deet bug spray
  • A small bottle of Alleve
  • A 2 oz. bottle of ProvIodine
  • A 3 oz bottle of ProvIodine
  • A small bottle of hygrogen peroxide to make a dog vomit if needed.
  • A small bottle of alcohol to clean a wound (or anything else)
  • Needle-nose pliars
  • Flat-faced wire cutters
  • Forceps
  • Digitial thermometer
  • Canine toe-nail clippers
  • Bic lighter
  • Quick-Stop styptic powder
  • Granulex spray
  • 1% cortizone cream
  • Tube of triple anti-biotic ointment
  • Muzzle for terrier
  • 1 Percocet-5 which is enough to dose 10 terriers if needed.
  • 1:1000 epinephrine (never used)
  • Sterile hypodermic needle for percocet or epinephrine
  • Veterinary stapler (never used, in sterile pack)
  • Veterinary staple remover
  • 4 oz. bottle of Erliworm dog worming medicine
  • Small vial of Vetbond
  • Five tubes of SuperGlue (same as vetbond, but much cheaper)
  • Small 1.2 oz bottle of human shampoo
  • A slice of bar soap
  • Ocu-coat eyedrops
  • Dental floss (a cheap type of very strong thread)
  • 2 needles
  • Exra deben locator collar
  • Exra Deben locator box
  • Batteries for Deben locator box and collar
  • Xtra roll of yellow collar tape
  • 2 extra rolls of black collar tape
  • Two small flashlights in working order
  • Candle lantern with 3 extra candles (will last all night).
  • Space blanket
  • Spare root saw
  • Three fox nets
  • Extra collapsible water bottle
  • Extra collapsible water bowl for dog
  • Dog brush
  • Machete and knife sharpener
  • Spare rivets for shovel handle
  • Scissors
  • Razor blades (about 10)
  • Roll of 2"gauze in sterile packaging
  • Wound managemen kit consisting of matches, lots of butterfly bandages, larger bandage strips, double anti-biotic ointment, towlette, iodine packs, empty irrigation syringe, suction tube, gauze
  • 2 small chain-repair links
  • A list of farm permissions and who gave them to me.
  • A large wild turkey feather for no reason what-so-ever
  • In the truck (not in the vet box) is a quart of "Skunk-Off."
Of course, the most important veterinary and emergency fix-it tool is always with me: my brain. Not using it is what it most likely to cause injury to both the dog and myself.

The second most important thing with me in the field is my cell phone, and the cell phone car-charger (just as important as the cell phone). When I need to find a vet, a doctor, or a tow truck, nothing will ever serve me better than a cell phone.

The third most important veterinary tool is my wallet, and the credit card and blank check inside it. When push comes to shove, I may need to cough up real money for emergency veterinary care.

My field pack always contains several bottles of eye-flush water, and I also carry a couple of gallons of distilled water in the truck for the dogs to drink and/or to flush out eyes and any gashes that might occur.

I also have a pretty good supply of antibiotics in the refrigerator at the house: Cephalexan (Fish-flex), Amoxicillin (Fish-mox), and Baytril, as well as Mycitracin eye ointment to help prevent infection in case of a corneal rip.

See the www.terrierman.com web site for more information on basic field health care for your working terrier.

And NO for the record, the stripping knife was not in the veterinary box; it was in a plastic bin on a shelf beside the wash tubs in the laundry room, underneath an old dog collar, three terrier stripping stones, a tooth brush I use on the dogs, two bottles of dog shampoo, two broken Deben Mark I collars, and an old slicker brush. In short, it was right where it should have been.
.

Sunday, March 30, 2008

Deben LRT Raffle to Benefit TRAPPED




The folks putting on the Cowboy Classic Terrier Trial are raffling off a Deben LRT collar and box to benefit TRAPPED ( http://www.trappeddog.com ) The head coordinator for Trapped, but the way, is Charlene (Char) Smith who, in the small world department, bred Pearl, the dog pictured in the post immediately below.

The raffle at the Cowboy Classic Terrier Trial is set up so that folks from all over can purchase tickets, and this one is no different.

The drawing will occur at the Cowboy Classic Terrier Trials in Wyoming over Labor Day weekend this year.

Tickets are $5 each and 5 for $20. The winning ticked will be drawn August 30, 2008 after the go-to-ground and racing awards are handed out for that day. Tickets can be purchased via Paypal (make yourself an account, etc.), provided they are purchased no later than August 28.

To buy tickets via PayPal, send your money to this email >> cowboyclassictrials@fastmail.fm or you can can snail mail a check or money to >> Erin Schwartzkopf, 73 Hwy 59, Douglas, Wyoming 82633.

For the record, the Deben Long Range Terrier Finders are a pretty good bit of kit in my opinion. These new collars and boxes are well made, and will locate a dog as much as 40ft away. The collar is fully waterproof, has a battery life of 350 hours and is switched on/off by a magnet in the hand held receiver - there's no reason to remove the batteries after each use. The transmitter is fitted with a top quality leather collar. The new LRT box and collar are normally sold for $300 box/collar set.




Compare and contrast:
The Deben LRT locator box/wand is at far right; the collar for the LRT is the middle one of the three shown. The other collars show are the old Deben Mark I (no longer made, but the type I still use) and the Deben Mark III (which is fine for ferrets, but cannot take the beating it gets from terrier work).
.

Monday, January 07, 2008

Simple Deben Collar Improvements



The two collars above show two very simple improvements you can make to your Deben Mark I collars to give them a longer life.

The first tip is to coat the outside of the collar with a slathering of rock-hard and tough-as-nails PC-7 epoxy. This is a two-part epoxy that is as thick as tar, but it will protect the collar from bites. More importantly, it will fill in all the little holes and bubbles that are commonly found in the Deben plastic and which are a source of moisture entry.

Deben collars normally have two small transistor wires that are barely coated by the normal plastic coating of the collar. When that coating is worn away, water enters the collar and oxidizes the internal circuits, which makes the collar go on the fritz.

Collars die because of water entry, and nothing is more important to the life of the collar -- and the life of your dog in the hunt field -- than keeping water out of the collar.

A second tip is to slip a very tight O-ring between the battery cap and the hard plastic body of the Deben transmitter. Both collars, above, have a black O-ring in place. O-rings can be purchased at any hardware store and cost only a dime or two, but they provide a fairly good seal right at the cap where it is most needed.

Use of an O-ring does NOT mean you do not have to tape your collar! In fact, proper taping of a collar is one of the most important things you do to secure your dog's safety and longevity.

Tape Deben collars well before you get into the field -- taping a collar while everyone else is waiting, dogs are barking, your fingers are numb from the cold, and your mind is half adled from excitement and the confusion of loading up is a guarantee of a job poorly done. Some tips on taping can be found >> here.

Test batteries before you put them into a collar, and test the collar and box before you let the dog enter the earth.

Deben collars are much less likely to fail on a dig if diggers take the precautions outlined above. A lot of Deben collar failure can be traced back to the failure of diggers to do everything obvious and possible to keep water out of the collar.
.

Monday, December 10, 2007

The First Deben?



Tracking transmitters are not that hard to make. The schematic, above, is for an animal tracking transmitter that generates a pulsed continuous wave (CW).

The complete transmitter, including the battery, weighs only 8 to 10 grams (less than two nickels) and is only slightly larger than a man's thumb nail. The ground range is 3/8 to 1/2 mile with a good receiver and antenna system -- less if the antenna on the transmitter is reduce or eliminate and the receiver is a simple radio box (as is the Deben receiver)

This transmitter design is from the American Institute of Biological Sciences Bioinstrumentation Advisory Council information module M15 prepared by William W. Cochran, December 1, 1967.

It is hard to be sure, but I believe this is the "original" Deben collar. Here are the parts:


X = Crystal, type FM1. 3rd overtone for 145-160MHz, 5th overtone for 220 MHz

Q = Transistor, Amperex type A415 (original type specified). Others that can be used include NTE 107, MPS6507, and 2N3904.

R2 = 1500 ohm, 1/8 watt

R1 = between 80K and 600K, 1/8 watt. This resistor determines the "beep" rate and is effected by battery voltage and the transistor selected.

C1 = Subminiature 15 mmf capacitor

C2 = Subminiature .001 mf capacitor

C3 = 2mf subminature capacitor

ant = 12 inch

L1 = 12.5 to 13 turns of #36 enameled wire wound on a 1/8 inch form and removed.

L2 = 4.5 turns of #32 enameled wire wound on a 1/8 inch form and removed.

wire = wire used to provide capacity to the animal

B = Battery, mercury type, 1.5volt


A photocopy of the out-of-print original publication for the M15 Animal Tracking Transmitter can be had for $5 from: http://www.jbgizmo.com/page5.html All of the components can be had for about $15.

For anyone that wants to play with a ready-made bug or tracker, the folks at hobbytron.net sell a 3v FM bug transmitter for just $20 (picture below), while full instructions for building an FM tracker can be read at FM Tracking intructions from JB Gizmo at http://www.jbgizmo.com/page21.html


Friday, October 19, 2007

Ten Reasons to Join the JRTCA




Ten reasons to join the JRTCA that have nothing to do with showing:

1. You will get a good, and sometimes useful, publication.


Most issues have a story or two, or an article or two, on working terriers. Considering the diversity of the JRTCA, the editors do a pretty good job of speaking to all terrier interests. This is a house organ, not Newsweek, but at 68 pages or so, it's a pretty nice job and often has a health tip or two as well. Research on bronze medallion dogs in True Grit helped me assemble the data on the average size of American working dogs in North America.

2. Picture ads in every major off-the-shelf dog magazine telling people NOT to get a Jack Russell terrier without doing more research. The "unselling" of this breed to "Wishbone" and "Eddie" wannabe owners is a very useful thing if you care about working terriers. I consider this important (and expensive) work worth supporting. No other breed or Club does this; I am very glad the JRTCA does.

3. An excellent web site ( www.terrier.com ) that presents the full range of interests in the Jack Russell terrier. A very nice job and full accolades to the web master. Interactive quizzes help make sure people know what they are getting into with a hunting terrier, and a FAQ section provides more information. Again, this is the kind of effort no other breed or Club does, and it is no small effort.

4. Status is given to working terriers in the show-ring-world which, in turn, brings more people in
to the working world. A special page or two at the front of the magazine is always devoted to working terriers, the highest JRTCA awards go to working terriers, and a dog in the field is always featured on the cover. Since the dog-show world is mostly about status, the elevation of the status of real work by the JRTCA encourages more "show people" to hunt at least once or twice. Some of these folks have decided they like hunting better than showing -- a very positive thing, and the way hunting with terriers has actually been established in the U.S. Without the JRTCA there would not be much terrier work in the U.S.

5. A working terrier program that has a full page-and-a-half of working judges complete with addresses and phone numbers listed. It may not be enough, but it's more than exists anywhere else on the planet. It's amazing that so many people have signed up to be working judges considering how thankless a job it is. Going out with a working judge is not the only way to learn how to hunt, of course, but it's how many people actually do.

6. A ready supply of Deben locator boxes, Deben collars, and fox nets that folks can order on the Internet, pay by credit card, and receive in 2-3 days. Break a collar on a Sunday, and another will be in hand by Wednesday or Thursday. The JRTCA will sell locator boxes, collars and nets to anyone, and prices are fair.

7. A registry which discourages inbreeding. Some would argue about the value of this in some situations, but without a doubt it is a good thing for the long-term future of the dogs.

8. JRTCA Rescue which does a highly commendable job of housing and finding homes for dogs that deserve stability and love.


9. A code of ethics and various rules to discourage breeding too young, working too young, etc. Some may sneer at rules, but in fact a code of conduct (think Ten Commandments) is not such a bad thing to have on paper.

10. The past and the future. If terrier work has taken hold in the U.S. it is because of the JRTCA, and if it is going to spread (or be defended) it will be because of the JRTCA. Membership dues is a small thing to pay for all of the above.


Monday, October 15, 2007

Electronics for Dogs: All's Well That Ends Well


Mountain slide into a den on the walk back to the truck. She said somebody was home, but we did not have time to dig, and so we left it for another day.


I am frugal. Or, as my daughter describes it: Cheap, cheap, cheap.

I take pride in it, and so when something goes wrong that could cost me money, I tend to get vexated.

Such was the case on Friday, when I brought in the dogs for the night and counted three dogs and only two Invisible Fence collars. Where was Pearl's collar?

For the record, these collars are not cheap -- $300 a unit -- and I live in fear of having one of them come off and disappear into the half acre of ivy in the back yard. There was nothing to do about it on Friday night, as it was already dark. On Saturday morning, however, I swept the yard and found nothing, but on a second go-over I located the collar sitting on the top of an ivy-free mulched bed. A small miracle!

The other bit of electronic vexation this weekend was that I lost my Deben locator box on the farm last weekend. These old Deben boxes are no longer made, and though I have a spare, I do not like the loose feeling on that particular box's dial . I wanted my old Deben box back!

And so, even though I did not have time to hunt, it was back out to the farm yesterday for a bit of "locating the locator." I was pretty sure I had left the locator box at the last hole of the day, but I was afraid I might have accidentally buried it.

The good news is that I did not bury it, and I did find it. The case on the box was cracked, and there was a huge pile of poop on it. I mean a HUGE pile. It was hard to tell what it was -- it looked a bit like raccoon scat, but it was such an enormous pile that I think it must be coyote scat.

No matter; I got my locator box back, and with a little piece of hard plastic cut from a CD-rom case, and a little black PC-7 epoxy to bind it to the side, I have repaired the box and it is in fine working order again, if considerably uglier. All is well.

.

Wednesday, November 22, 2006

Bellman & Flint's New Web Site: Well Worth a Visit




I am a tough sell. I get a lot of links forwarded to me from folks that want to cross link in order to help sell some piece of dog paraphenalia or another, and I generally ignore them.

Consequently, if I give something a thumbs up, it tends to mean something. With that caveat, take a look at Bellman & Flint's new web site. It's not perfect yet, but it's the right stuff and the price seems fair for what appears to be very high quality goods.

This is the right direction for a small business to take -- specialized quality goods sold around the world to those of us who care and look for such things.

In the terrier world, most folks over here in the U.S. have heard of Bellman & Flint because they were the first folks, other than Deben, to make a terrier-dedicated locator collar.

I have used the Bellman and Flint kit, and while it is extremely well made (no complaints there!), I found the locator collar too big for the earths we have here in the Eastern U.S.

That said, not every place on earth has such tight pipes, and in the U.K. where old badger settes, deep rock fissures and 9 inch drains are more common, the Bellman & Flint kit has its enthusiastic champions. There is no reason in the world that everyone has to embrace the same technology. Different horses for different courses.

Now what else is Bellman and Flint selling on their new web site? For one thing, a wide variety of well-made terrier and hound couples. These appear to be made of top-quality leather and can be custom-assembled in any number of sizes, leather types and bits of gleaming hardware for terrier, beagle, lurcher, and hound alike. Beautiful stuff.

Along with very nice terrier, hound and lurcher couples and leads, there is also a nice collection of digging tools along with some very nice knives that, from their labeling, appear to be made in America. I am a bit of an old stick with my cheap Opinal knife, but I have to say these pretty wooden-handled locking blades are a very tempting acquisition ....

Christmas is just a month away, so for those of you looking to bring a smile on the face of a digger's heart, visit the Bellman and Flint site.

And while you are ordering things, don't forget to give a gift of American Working Terriers to someone you love!

Saturday, October 21, 2006

JRTCA Selling Deben LRT Collars and Boxes


The new Deben LRT box is at far right, the collar is in the middle of the three shown.


The JRTCA is now selling Deben Long Range Terrier Finders.
These new collars and boxes work well and will locate a dog as much as 40ft away. The collar is fully waterproof, has a battery life of 350 hours and is switched on/off by a magnet in the hand held receiver - there's no reason to remove the batteries after each use. The transmitter is fitted with a top quality leather collar. The new LRT box and collar are sold for $300 box/collar set. >> To order

Saturday, July 15, 2006

Leather Collar Replacement on Deben Mark I




I have been pretty good about maintaining the leather on my Deben collars (keeping them oiled and dry), and have never had a strap break until last weekend. It was bound to happen some time, though. I am happy to report that due to the fact I had some leather scraps in the garage, the cost of a replacement collar was just 89 cents for a small pack of copper split rivets from the local hardware store.

Replacing the leather on a Deben Mark I collar begins with cutting off the leather on each side of the locator, and then drilling out the leather that remains embedded in the plastic slot. Go slow, and it should come out easy enough. There is no reason to cut through the plastic slot -- just drill out the leather.

Once you have the leather off the locator, it's time to salvage the buckle and the two metal "safety rings" that were on your old Deben collar. The safety rings are the little bits of metal that hold the tongue of the collar down after it goes through the buckle. If you have lost these safety rings, you can make-do with a small slice of rubber tubing slipped up over the leather. The metal safety rings that came with your original Deben collar are far superior, however, and you will want to re-use these if you can. One of the metal pieces (the tie-out ring) looks a bit like a horse stirrup, and the other is a rectangular piece that does nothing but keep the leather tongue of the collar down after it goes through the buckle pin. The rectangular bit fits next to the buckle, and the tie-out stirrup fit farther back, between the two rivets.

Finding the right thickness and width of leather for your collar strap may require a small search. I was lucky -- a perfect leather strap was already on hand in a "farmer's bundle" of leather thongs and small scraps that I had acquired at the local hardware store a few years back. Most old-fashioned hardware stores will have a similar "farmers bundle" of leather scraps for sale. So too will most cobblers.

Trim the leather strap at least 6 inches longer than you will need it. Now slip one end of the strap through the buckle and fold over the leather to get an idea of where you will want to cut the slot for the buckle pin.

The slot for the buckle pin can be made by drilling two or three small holes right next to each other. If you need to, you can tidy up the slot with a hobby knife, but keep the cutting to an absolute minimum.

Next dry-fit the buckle with the leather folded over into a bite. The buckle pin should move pretty freely.

You now want to put on the two metal safety rings and see where they fit. The rectangular metal piece will be fitted in the same folded-over bight of leather that the buckle is in. A rivet will hold those two pieces next to each other.

The metal tie-out stirrup will go between the first rivet and the second rivet.

In truth, you should NEVER use a Deben collar as a tie-out collar; they are simply not made for that task. If you use a Deben collar as a tie-out collar, the leather WILL break. In fact that is exactly how this leather collar broke last week.

Once you know where all the pieces go on your new collar, you will need to drill two holes at the proper location for the rivets. Use a drill bit the same size as the rivet or a tiny bit smaller.

You will be drilling two holes which will each go through two pieces of leather, as the leather will be doubled over.

Once you have the holes drilled, fit all the pieces onto the collar as shown in the top picture. Remember, the rectangular metal piece will be in the same bight as the buckle, while the metal tie-out stirrup piece will be afixed between the two rivets.

In the picture on the top of this post, the leather tongue to the right of the buckle is the part that is folded over to afix the buckle and rings in place.

You are now ready to rivet the collar together. This is actually the easiest part, as it can be done with copper split rivets, which require no tools other than a hammer and a flat screw driver.

Take a small copper split rivet and push it through the double collar hole next to the buckle. The rounded copper head of the rivet should be on the outside of the collar, facing away from the dog. Use a flat screw driver to split the rivet wider, and then hammer the two rivet flanges over so they are pointed away from each other down the length of the collar. The two pieces of leather should be tight against each other and holding the buckle and rectangular safety ring in place.

Once the first rivet is afixed slip on the tie-out stirrup and afix the second copper rivet behind it.

To finish, trim the collar to length. Use a razor blade to cut a blunt point on the tongue end of the collar, and use a small drill bit to put holes in the collar to accept the buckle pin. The hole closest to the Deben transmitter should be the hole that fits the neck of your smallest dog.

The completed replacement collar is shown below.

Note that all of my Deben Mark I locators are coated with a thin layer of PC-7 epoxy in order to cover the wires that are very near the surface. If the thin plastic on a Deben Mark I collar wears away, water will get in the electronics, and the collar will fail permanently.

Along with the tough epoxy coating on the transmitter, also note the rubber O-ring between the cap and the body of the transmitter. This too is a small addition that will help keep your Deben Mark I collar running longer -- along with proper taping.

Finally, note the brass slide tag on the collar. This is a 3/4" slide tag (the smallest I could find at the time). It lies flush with the collar and, unlike a riveted tag, puts no unecessary holes in the collar. This tag will slide a bit under pressure, and though my dogs have been in hundreds and hundreds of very tight holes, they have never gotten hung up. Unlike a riveted collar tag, a slide tag can move from collar to collar. Put both a phone number and your name and address on the collar. A brass tag, unlike an aluminum tag, will not scratch easily.

For slide tags, see here (brass 1/2 and 3/4 inch) or here (brass 3/4 inch) or here (brass 3/4 inch). If you want to make your own collars entirely, small metal buckles can be bought at local craft shops



Sunday, May 28, 2006

JRTCA Now Selling Mark III Deben Locator Sets




The Jack Russell Terrier Club of America is now selling Deben Mark III locator sets.

This is the new and improved terrier finder and collar set from Deben. The new box is bright orange (harder to lose) has a LED display and varying pitch. A grey box is also made by Deben.



The box is said to be more-or-less water proof, but apparently the collar has to be taped (read farther to find an alternative Deven rig). The box has a 16-foot range in search mode, and can be "stepped down" to 10 feet for a very accurate "locate" mode. The collar is nylon, lightweight and durable.

The receiver is designed to reject interference and so there will be less problems with nearby electric fences and overhead lines. The receiver has magnetic reed switches (no moving parts) which operate the on/off and search/locate switched. New efficient circuitry means improved collar battery life of over 300 hours. The locator box can be used to locate more than one dog underground at a time - simply purchase additional collars.

The price is $195 a set. Click >> To order You do not have to be a JRTCA member to order from the JRTCA, but even if you do not have a Jack Russell Terrier, membership in the JRTCA is a sound investment in the future of American terrier work. To read 10 reasons to join the JRTCA >> click here

An important note: Deben has come out with a NEW long-range terrier finder that is good, in search mode, for 40-feet, and which has both a waterproof box AND a water proof collar. This is the rig I am probably going to get when my old Mark I kits (two boxes, four or five collars) go the way of all things.

Sunday, February 05, 2006

Deben's New And Improved Collar



Deben has created a NEW long range terrier collar designed to work to over 40ft (12m) distance. The collar is fully WATERPROOF, has a battery life of over 350 hrs and is switched On / Off by a magnet located in the tip of the hand held receiver so there is no need to remove the batteries after each time of use. The transmitter is fitted with a top quality leather collar which can easily be replaced when worn.

A LED display on the receiver indicates distance from the terrier and a varying pitch sounder increases in pitch, as the receiver approaches the collar. In search mode the range is over 40ft (12m) and in the locate mode the working range is between 10ft (3.5m) and 8inc (20cm) for ultra-accurate, ‘close-in’ location.

The unique receiver circuit is designed both to detect the signal transmitted by the collar and to reject interference from elsewhere. The receiver has magnetic reed switches (no moving parts for improved reliability) which operate the on/off facility and a search/locate facility. Ultra-Efficient Electronic Circuitry means improved collar battery life of over 350 hours.

The compact designed collar fits neatly under the dog’s neck. (note – although all Mk3 receivers will work with the LRT collar, the calibration will not be correct. All MK 3 receivers have been fitted with a magnet at the tip for magnetic switch on/off)

A complete collar and box set is 195 British pounds or about $346 U.S. The collar and receiver alone are 97 and 98 pounds each, respectively. >> To order