Wednesday, June 03, 2009

The Food of a Younger Land

From Booklist

Just what we need in hard times, recipes for booya, mullet salad, Georgia possum and taters, kush, and Montana fried beaver tail. Kurlansky, the author of best-selling books about salt, cod, and oysters, discovered these gems in a two-foot-high stack of the “raw, unedited manuscripts” for an inspired but never completed WPA endeavor titled America Eats. As he explains in his invigorating introduction, the Federal Writers’ Project sent starving writers of all stripes (Nelson Algren, Zora Neale Hurston, Eudora Welty, and other who qualified just because they could type) across the country to gather information about “American cookery and the part it has played in national life.” The results are vivid and playful dispatches from pre-interstate, pre-fast-food America, when food was local and cuisine regional. Kurlansky selected zesty writings, factual and imaginative, describing barbecues, fries, and feasts; profiling families; and defining New York City luncheonette slang (“blind ’em” means two eggs fried on both sides). Fun, illuminating, and provocative, this historic reclamation appears while we’re in the midst of the worst financial crisis since the one Franklin D. Roosevelt fought with his job-creating stimulus package and while we’re grappling with a plague of unsafe food and environmental woes associated with industrial agriculture. But don’t despair. Whip up Ethel’s Depression Cake, and throw a bailout party.


Yeah, I thought it sounded good too. >> To order from Amazon
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3 comments:

Anonymous said...

Another very good book in this vein is Bull Cook and Authentic Historical Recipes and Practices. It's a mix of basic cooking tips, real and fake recipes, survival tips, old time remedies, bits of local history and other strange stuff. It's one of the oddest and most interesting cooking-related books I've seen.

Anonymous said...

The Codman has a new book out!

Excellent!

Heather Houlahan said...

Or one could just refer to the MFK Fisher wartime classic How to Cook a Wolf.

There are some excellent recipes there, and sage advice. The chapter on feeding dogs and cats during lean times is rather lovely.