Saturday, August 29, 2015

Hanging With Hemingway's Ghost

Carolyn and I walked the area around Ernest Hemingway's old apartments at 39 rue Descartes and 74 rue Cardinal Lemoine, having several coffees and no-alcohol beers at the cafes in the little square (Café Contrescarpe and Café Delmas).

The main drag of the area is Rue Mouffetard, a narrow market street lined with bars, restaurants and small shops in the Latin Quarter, slightly behind and to the right as you face the Pantheon. The area is named after the stink that came from the area when it was a tannery district in the 19th century.

Hemingway and his wife, Hadley, moved into a 3rd floor cold water flat with a common bathroom down the hall at 39 Lemoine, and Ernest had a small one-room office around the corner at Descartes, in a building whose lower floor is now a restaurant-bar.

This is still a great little area, and it's not hard to see what Hemingway liked about it, even 90 years later. The good stuff lasts.

1 comment:

TEC said...

Like you, I am a big fan of Hemingway. Recently downloaded, and am reading, his 1932 "Death in the Afternoon". But, as you know, there is another ghost in the vicinity, Rene' Descartes. The great skeptic, he is believed by many the father of modern philosophy and analytic geometry. "Cogito, ergo sum".

Try to see a bullfight. You will have to travel. Hemingway thought French bullfights were a waste of time. Have a great vacation. -- TEC